In addition to snorkeling, the last couple of weeks have allowed me to focus on some chronic problems. The autopilot / plotter / navigation software interfaces now all seem to be working well which is a big improvement. Then I had to replace a voltage regulator for the engine mounted alternators and in the process I discovered and solved a problem that had been there since New Morning was launched. A wiring short cut had introduced an error in the temperature compensation causing the voltage to be too high, but that had been partially offset by the default parameters of the regulator which were too low. By correcting the wiring and setting the correct parameters in the regulator the batteries are now getting much better treatment which should contribute to their longevity and reliability. As they say, cruising is the endless process of fixing your boat in paradise.

Life is pretty easy here, though Bonaire is somewhat of a conundrum. Below the water is a lush marine wonderland, above the water is a desert. Most of the development is clustered along the western, lee shore. Businesses (and diving is THE business here) are along the shore, backed by residential areas. Our friend Joel Simon who runs snorkeling trips around the world (www.seaforyourself.com) took me on an expansive tour of the island. Half a mile away from shore is desert. Real desert, with open expanses of powdery red soil and cactus. Once I saw this it completely explained why the boat is caked in red dust. Trades blow off the Caribbean on the east shore, pick up the dust and deposit it upon everything else clustered on the western shore. The annual rainfall is just 20". Think of Los Angeles (annual rainfall 15"), but without water from Northern California and no snow covered mountains to the north and east. Bonaire makes all of it's own water, desalinated from the sea.

The population is just 14,000, but most people speak four languages - Dutch, Spanish, English, and Papiamentu (close to Portugese). Everything works pretty well, the food is excellent (though no patisseries), people are friendly and it's noticeably less expensive than Guadeloupe or Antigua. A Polar beer is about $1.50 in a bar. It's only 8oz, but they're happy to sell us as many as we want!

The weather has been a bit odd. It's cloudy in the morning about 70% of the time, then it clears up later on. Kind of like San Francisco, except I don't know what's driving the cloud cover because 2/3 of the island is flat and it's no more than 5 miles across. And a persistent haze hangs on the horizon, producing sunsets like the one in this picture, but are so different than those east Caribbean sunsets.

Below the water is amazing. Literally right off the back of the boat are big parrot fish, eels, angelfish, squid, and all manner of tropical fish. And they're big, much larger than the same fish when we saw them in the east Caribbean. We're moored about 100yds from the main street of Kralendijk, and right off our bow is what I call the "lap pool", Bonaire style. Why build a pool when you have 80 degree crystal clear water at your doorstep? They've laid out long course (50m) lane lines and different groups come down on different days to train and go through all the stuff you'd see at a local pool. People swim laps, kids fool around when they should be paying attention, a coaches blows a whistle and yells at people, etc. I haven't seen a proper swim meet yet, but if they held one I'm pretty sure this is where they'd hold it.

It's life on the moorings now. There are two rows of boats, all double tied to moorings and swinging in 15-25 knots of breeze. Bonaire is very dry so a lot of dust, and a few mosquitoes, blow off the land and onto the boat. But the water is clear and the fish abundant.

Today we picked up Christian and Josie-anne in the dinghy and motored over to No Name beach on Klein Bonaire (aka Little Bonaire). It was blowing 20+ so the downwind ride to the island was very quick and relatively smooth. Although at one point we plowed into the back of a wave which took us off a plane and buried the bow into the wave, filling the dinghy with water. Fortunately everyone shifted aft, the bow lifted and we didn't sink the dinghy. We beached the dinghy, walked east until the powdery sand ended, then put on our fins/snorkels and kicked out. We went though about 40 yards of very shallow water with lots of coral which was a really challenge with lots of wind and a big chop. Once we got off the ledge, the bottom dropped away like a cliff.

As we snorkeled along the edge we saw an amazing array of fish and Fay got this great shot of a big parrot fish. But we also saw barracuda, trunk fish, angelfish and all manner of tropical fish, mostly super-sized. And turtles! We saw at least four different turtles, Again, Fay got this great shot of a turtle that swam right up to her. Bonaire is called the Divers Paradise and we can see why; there are lots of fish!

The ride back was very wet. The first ten minutes we had a fire hose coming at us every 20 seconds as motored into the 20-25kts of breeze at 5-10 knots creating 25-30kts of apparent wind. Very wet and wild. The breeze is supposed to lighten up a bit later this week so we're looking forward to a second trip.

Yesterday we moved from the marina to a mooring. There is no anchoring allowed in Bonaire due to a variety of factors. The first is that the water drops off very quickly from shore; literally from 20' to 500' in a few hundred yards. The second is the preservation of the reefs and marine life in Bonaire since they are the core of it's tourism industry. They have excellent moorings with two large mooring blocks, each with its own mooring line so all the boats are double moored very securely.

There is plenty of breeze, but no fetch and thus no waves. Just the wakes from passing boats, with much more traffic when a cruise ship is in town. And, no mosquitoes, or at least very few, we're not entirely sure yet if there are none at all.

The water is very clear and we can snorkel right off the boat. It's nice to be back where we can dive off the back of the boat anytime we want to cool off. While we were out for a swim today, Fay spotted a Lionfish. This is a big deal because it's an invasive species in the Caribbean that is both venomous to humans and a very aggressive and able predator with respect to other reef fish. As such, there is very active effort by marine authorities to capture or kill them when they are spotted in the Caribbean. Fay reported this one to the National Park authorities so we'll see if they come out to capture it.

We arrived back in Bonaire late Sunday night. New Morning was in fine shape tied up in the Harbour Village Marina. It's nice to be back in the tropics and 80 degree weather! Unfortunately the mosquitoes here are as plentiful as the tropical fish and much more aggressive. We battled them in the hotel Sunday night, and now in the marina. However, we did discover bug wands at the hotel; sort of like a badminton racket, but they zap mosquitoes (or any other bug I guess). They're definitely more effective than slapping them with our hands. We have a few things to do on the dock, then I think we'll head for a mooring in hopes of escaping some of the mosquitoes.

Once settled in we'll start looking for dive and snorkeling locations. Yesterday afternoon while having lunch next to the water we could see large fish right up at the surface, nibbling on the growth on the rocks. We're looking forward to getting into the water.

We came back to California last week for a very short visit and we return to Bonaire very soon. It's cold and rainy here, but the shelves of the stores are completely full! We picked up some provisions, parts, tools and the usual collection of stuff that is difficult to purchase when cruising, but available here within a 10 miles radius!

We also made our pilgrimage to the French consulate to apply for a long stay visa for French Polynesia. It appears all of our papers were in order, so now we just wait 2-3 months to see if they grant our visa.

It's raining again today with the temperature hovering around 50F. We're ready to return to 80F and warm water.

We arrived in Bonaire yesterday afternoon. We sailed from Los Roques to Aves de Barlovento in very boisterous conditions. With 22-25kts of true wind directly behind us we averaged 9.2kts of boat speed and had a new boat speed record of 13.8kts! But the seas were short and steep so we sailed with the true wind at 150 degrees and gybed back and forth down our course. The result was that our net speed for the whole trip from anchor to anchor was only 7.5kts. We anchored at Barlovento behind a large stand of trees filed with red footed Boobies. Fay got some great pictures which we'll post later.

Yesterday we sailed from Barlovento to Bonaire, with slightly less wind, only about 20-23kts. Our average yesterday was 8.6kts, but again we had to gybe down the course so our net speed was a little lower. As we rounded Lacre Point and headed up the lee side of Bonaire the seas smoothed out and we thought the wind would lighten up. Were we ever wrong. The wind increased to 25kts true, with gusts to 28, and right on the beam. With the jib rolled up a bit, and a reef in the main, we flew up the lee shore at a constant 9.5kts which is pretty much our maximum hull speed without waves to push us forward. An exhilarating ride, but we would gladly have had less wind. Dropping the sails in that much wind was not fun.

Fortunately there was a little protection at the fuel dock in the Harbour Village Marina so we had no problems docking and tying up. This morning we moved from the fuel dock to a slip. Tomorrow we leave at 5am for a short trip back to California.

There are pictures of our most recent time in Les Saintes, and an update to our planned schedule.

Just before the lobster was another first on New Morning. The first fresh baked artisan breads.

First Fay made focaccia from an Alice Waters recipe, to which she added machego cheese, basil pesto, caramelized onions and spices. That was dinner one night. Then the next day she stretched it into a pizza for lunch!

Not to be out done, I took my hand to the bread baking. First flour (white + rye), salt, water, and a pinch of yeast which fermented overnight. In the morning, a quick fold and 15 min rest, followed by shaping (I tried two) and two more hours of rising, then into the oven. We were very worried the oven wasn't up to the task, but with our baking stone in place and 45 minutes of pre-heating, it was great. The breads came out really well, easily exceeding my expectations.

Since we both love good bread (with olive oil and balsamic it's practically a meal in itself) we now know we can always have good bread. What a relief to no longer be at the mercy of the grocery store, mercado or supermarché.

Death was expected to come swiftly. The pick was plunged quickly and decisively between the eyes, through the skull and into the brain. But not today, not this afternoon. The langousta fought back with all it's being, flipped and flopped and defied the "the most humane way to kill a lobster..." instructions in the cookbook. Fay fell back, then plunged forward again and again, stirring the contents of whatever lay behind the forehead of the langousta. To no avail; it would not die.

As it seemed weakened, she positioned the long chef's knife the length of it's body and tail. With a swift blow of the rubber hammer the knife bifurcated the langousta. But still it's twitching body tormented Fay's gentle being. Eventually, with it's body cut in half, the tail separated from the body, the legs from the body, and the antennae from the head, it ceased to move. Relief and sadness settled on the transom.

None the less, grilled and served with freshly baked bread and a bottle of La Crema chardonnay it was a tasty meal. Pictures will be posted.

It's not often you see pink flamingos in the wild. Fay got some great shots of these birds, but this is a quick one to show you what we saw. There was actually a huge flock of them, but after we made one pass fairly close quite a few of them moved away.

Today we moved from out on the eastern reef to a really nice little lagoon on Isla Carenero. The eastern reef was beautiful in a desolate sort of way, but we got tired of whipping around on the end of 200' of chain in 20kts of wind. Now we're in a tranquil lagoon with 25' of water, shielded from the wind, but plenty of breeze to keep us cool. The small island keeps out the waves and chop. Seems like a pretty nice spot.

And as a bonus, on the trip today we went by an island full of pink flamingos! Fay was in awe and shot a bunch of pictures. We'll post them when we get an internet connection. And to top it off, after the anchor was set and we were starting to settle in, a turtle swam up to the boat as if to say "welcome".